Growing Grapes: Zone 6B

Growing grapes is an art form. Whether you want them for wine, juice, or just snacking. They can be rather demanding but are so worth it.

Grapes are perennials and will live 25-30 years so like kids it's important to get them started right! Whether you're a beginner or an experienced gardener, this step-by-step guide will help you successfully plant your grape vines and watch them thrive.

Let's get started!

Types of Grapes

There are three main types of grapes. American, European, and hybrids of the two.

American Grapes

American grapes like the Muscadine are native to the deep south. They were cultivated by Native Americans before European colonists brought grape cultivars from Europe.

American grapes are renowned for their resilience and ability to withstand a wide range of climates. Varieties such as Concord and Catawba are the stuff of childhood memories, with sweet, aromatic flavors that make them perfect for making juice and jelly.

These grapes have tough skin, making them resistant to diseases and pests that often afflict European varieties.

Many American grape varieties have been developed for northern climates and are grown as far north as Zone 4. Edelweiss grapes were developed in Minnesota and are quite hardy.

European Grapes

European grapes are more wine grapes that prefer warm sandy soil. These are the grapes developed around the Mediterranean. They are known for their flavor.

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Merlot are some popular European varieties.

These grapes produce wines with complex flavors, ranging from crisp and fruity to rich and full-bodied. Unlike their American counterparts, European grapes are more susceptible to diseases and require careful cultivation in specific regions.

Hybrids

American and European grapes have been crossed and French Hybrids often have the hardiness of American grapes and the flavor of European grapes.

Examples like Vidal Blanc and Seyval Blanc thrive in various climates and produce wines with remarkable flavors. These grapes often exhibit disease resistance and adaptability, making them a popular choice among winemakers worldwide.

Check out my new garden log and planner - the planting dates are geared towards Zone 6B. Paperbacks on Amazon or you can get a PDF version on my store page.

Where To Plant Grapes

Like good real estate location is very important. Choose a sunny place with well-drained, fertile soil. If you have heavy clay soil it's good to mix in peat, greensand, and compost to add nutrients and lighten the soil.

Fun trivia for my Kentucky friends. Kentucky used to be a main grape exporter before prohibition and they switched to tobacco.

Soil Test

Do a soil test before planting grapes. Soil pH is important with grapes. Ideally, most grape varieties need a soil pH between 5.5-6.5. So slightly acidic. Cottonseed meal is a good organic fertilizer that helps to lower pH over time.

Pollination

Many grapes need to be cross-pollinated by a different variety. So make sure you have at least two compatible varieties.

Grapes rely on pollination for successful fruit production. Pollination is the transfer of pollen from the male part of a flower to the female part, leading to fertilization and the development of seeds and fruit.

Self-Pollination vs. Cross-Pollination
Grapes can be either self-pollinating or cross-pollinating, depending on the variety. Self-pollinating grapes possess flowers containing both male and female parts, allowing them to pollinate themselves without outside assistance. These varieties are known as "self-fertile" or "self-fertile hermaphrodite."

On the other hand, some grape varieties are cross-pollinating, which means they require pollen from a different grape variety to achieve successful fertilization. These varieties have separate male and female flowers, and the transfer of pollen from one plant to another is necessary for fruiting to occur.

Your nursery should be able to help you find compatible vines.

Pollinators for Grapevines
While self-pollinating grape varieties do not require assistance from external pollinators, cross-pollinating varieties rely on the help of various insects and wind for successful pollination.

Insects, particularly bees, play a vital role in grape pollination. Bees are attracted to the sweet fragrance of grape flowers and inadvertently transfer pollen from one flower to another as they forage for nectar. Other insects such as flies and wasps might also contribute to pollination, although their effectiveness is generally lower compared to bees.

Wind is another natural pollinator for grapevines. As the wind blows, it can disperse pollen from male flowers to female flowers, facilitating fertilization. However, wind pollination is less efficient compared to insect pollination, and grape varieties that rely solely on wind may have lower fruit set rates.

Planting Considerations
To ensure successful pollination in your grapevines, it is essential to consider the following factors:
1. Planting multiple grape varieties, including at least one cross-pollinating variety, is recommended to encourage pollination and increase fruiting rates.
2. Providing a suitable habitat for pollinators, such as planting flowering plants nearby, maintains a healthy population of bees and other beneficial insects in the area.
3. Avoiding the use of chemical pesticides during flowering is crucial to protect pollinators and ensure their continued presence for grape pollination.

Prepare The Soil

Start by clearing the area of any debris, rocks, or weeds. Loosen the soil using a garden fork or tiller, and mix in compost or well-rotted manure to improve fertility and drainage.

Dig a hole and loosen up the soil around the sides. My grandfather used to say grapes needed elbow room. Each hole should be wide and deep enough to accommodate the vine's roots without bending or crowding.

Generally, a hole around two feet wide and two feet deep is sufficient, but be sure to follow any specific instructions provided by the nursery or supplier. Plant vines with the lowest bud on the cane just above the soil surface. Press soil firmly but gently around roots and water in well.

We often purchase grapes from a nursery and they will come bare root. You should have prepared your soil and be ready to plant when they arrive. Trim off any broken or excessively long roots.

Or you may have purchased a potted vine from a local nursery. Carefully remove the grapevine from its container, ensuring the root ball remains intact.

Place the vine in the center of the hole and backfill with the soil, gently pressing it down with your hands to remove any air pockets. Make sure the graft union (the swollen area where the vine was grafted onto the rootstock) remains above the soil line.

Watering

Young grapes need about 1/2 to 1 inch of water per week, depending on rainfall, for the first two years.

Water young vines by saturating the root zone area. Don't water the leaves. Apply 5 gallons of water over a 3 x 3-foot area for 1 inch of water.

Weeding

Mulch around the vines and weed carefully. Grapes do not like competition so it's important to keep them weeded.

Distance Between Vines

Grapes need to be trellised and so are planted in rows. Table and wine varieties should be planted 6-8’ apart. (1.8 - 2.4 m). Muscadine grapes should be planted 12-15’ apart. (3.6 - 4.5 m).

Plant about 3 vines for person for table use and some to make jelly. Plant more if you plan to juice them or make wine.

Photo by author, Ame Vanorio

Trellis

Grape vines are natural climbers and do well with something to climb on. In the wild they often use trees. You want to get your trellis structure set up that first summer and start training grapes as they grow.

Grape vines need proper support to grow vertically and prevent damage to the plant. Install a sturdy trellis or arbor near each vine to provide support as the vines grow. Make sure the structure is secure and able to withstand strong winds and the weight of the mature vines.

There are many types of trellis systems so you should consider what works best for you. For a backyard setting training grapes to an overhead arbor or pergola is both space efficient and makes a wonderful shady sitting area.

You can use wooden or metal posts to build your trellis. Whatever you use needs to be sturdy and well-anchored in the ground. They may look light but grape vines are pretty strong. And the fruit makes the vines heavy.

For young grapes, you may want to use to loosely tie them to the supports. Start wrapping the tendrils around the wires.

Your trellis should be 5-6 feet tall or for a pergola 10 feet. Run wire in between supports. Fences also make good support for vines.

Pruning and Maintenance

Regular pruning is essential for grape vines to keep them healthy and maximize fruit production. You may want to take a course on pruning at your local extension.

Consult pruning guidelines specific to your grape variety and prune accordingly. Additionally, provide regular care such as fertilizing, training the vines along the support structure, and monitoring for pests or diseases.

Grapevines must be pruned every winter or spring. It is important because it helps them produce a healthy crop of fruit and survive for many years. It's important to know the parts of the grape plant for pruning. Choose the healthiest 1-2 main canes, and remove the rest. Prune off all of the lateral canes, waterspouts, and suckers that are branching off of the main one.

You may be surprised how much of the grape gets pruned after it reaches three years old. In professional vineyards, 70-80% of the new growth is pruned off each winter. This is because grapes are produced on new shoots, not old branches.

During the second summer, train lateral shoots onto the trellis or fence, so they look like arms coming off the main stem. Remember, the fruit develops on the current season's growth, which is growing off of last season's wood.

You may have purchased an older home and inherited old grape vines that look dead. Don't give up on them. Prune old and neglected vines in stages so as not to shock the plant. Your goal is to get the vine back to a single trunk with well-placed canes. Prune in late winter when the vine is dormant.

Problems

Grapes are prone to problems! Planting in full sun with plenty of space to allow airflow is critical for prevention. Get varieties that are hardy in your region. Both downy and powdery mildew affect grapes. I have a thorough video about them as well as a free download on the website on prevention and treatments.

Japanese beetles are lethal to grapes so their prevention and control are important. I have an entire video on them. But the short answer is to check for them often and knock them into a bucket of soapy water.

The fruit can also suffer. This is black rot and I can tell you that it is incredibly sad to come out to your orchard and discover this. Black rot is a fungal disease caused by Guignardia bidwellii. I doubt I said that right. Black rot is a cumulative disease, meaning it builds up for multiple seasons. So it's important to get a handle on it. Use Neem Oil for prevention and control.

Birds can also be problematic. If you are having an issue purchase bird netting to keep them off the vines. You might also encourage wild grapes to grow so as to give the birds something else. Birds that eat grapes in the wild include many beautiful songbirds such as bluebirds, catbirds, grosbeaks, mockingbirds, robins, tanagers, and waxwings.

You may wish to have your grapes on an organic spray schedule. In early spring use Monterey Horticultural Oil to kill scale insects and mealybugs. During leaf emergence, and if you have had past mold and mildew issues, you might use Monterey Liquid Copper Fungicide. It is organic but pretty strong stuff so use it with caution.

Harvest

Harvest grapes when the bunches are full and have good color.

Of course the best way to see if they are ripe is to taste them!

Use a pair of scissors and clip the bunch off the vine. Place them flat in a box - don't pile them in a deep bucket because you will squish the ones on the bottom.

Author, Ame Vanorio, is the founder of Fox Run, is a Master Gardener, and has 29+ years of gardening experience. Check out her books here.